Thursday 29 May 2014

Middletons - Milton Keynes

Three years is a long time. A looooooooong time. But not when you are married to Mrs P! And to celebrate three years definitely not being a long time, Mrs P and I doled up this week and stepped out into the rain. Here in MK, we have had the pleasure of a number of new eateries opening up recently and we had earmarked a couple for a celebratory blow out.

In the end, we plumped for Middletons, a self confessed 'steakhouse and grill'.



Personally I am unsure if it is entirely necessary to be described as a steakhouse as well as a grill, but willing as ever, we set out to uncover exactly why they felt the need to use both. 

The ambience was very welcoming, the place has a great feeling of light and shadow with the bar and tables feeling intimate but not cramped despite making, if I can say it politely, the most 'effective' use of the space. We were seated by the front door which provided me some very successful air-conditioning every time someone came in or out. The waitress was fantastically helpful though and quickly moved us over to a booth and out of the draft - happy days. We started chatting and Mrs P and I learned that Middletons was not a chain, the waitress was a little too keen to stress that point, but there are two other locations: Norwich and Kings Lynn. All three sites are apparently totally different with different styles and I have to say I approve of this approach but a quick check on the website shows that the menus are all the same and therefore I have to question the non-chain claim. We were told that the restaurant cost 2 million quid to open and it does look good, but I'm afraid no matter how hard they shout otherwise, standardisation across multiple sites is what defines a restaurant chain and here in food, if not in décor that is exactly what Middletons have done.

Anyway, that all turned a little too ranty so we'll move on to the food. One look at the menu and it's clear that this place does meat, lot's of meat. With a non too subtle gawp at the neighboring tables we decided that the plates were huge enough to bypass starters altogether and hit the meat. I had the apparently award winning mixed grill and Mrs P played it dangerously with the lamb. Before I tell you our thoughts, check it out:




The mixed grill was mammoth. The chicken and ribs were great and the ribs in particular were a real step above the standard usually set here in the UK. PLEASE NOTE! These are not fall off the bone ribs, they have bite and chew which took me straight back to Memphis when I helped judge the Memphis in May rib championship but the sauce was a touch too much for me though, too sweet and not enough smoke. Mrs P's lamb was soft, juicy, full of flavour and the dauphinoise  potato showed Coal exactly where to stick it. But the steak, ooooh, the steak. An 8oz ribeye oozing class, seasoning and an early heart attack - I loved it. 


Not a great picture but I was trembling with the meat sweats and had eaten 70% of it before I remembered to pause. While the above picture is not the best example of rare I have ever captured, I assure you that this is the best steak I've eaten for ages. Good beef, slapped on the grill and in my belly. Mmmmmmm.

If we do have a criticism, aside from the BBQ sauce, it can only be that the menu itself is huge, too many things going on with plenty of needless additions. Who goes to a steakhouse and orders lasagne?? So at the end of the day, think TGI Friday but done properly and you've got the gist. Can't complain on the price either, two seriously huge mains, plus (quite a few) drinks came out at £55 - nice work.

So Middletons, please don't pretend you are not a chain but I must commend you on being a really good one. 

Thursday 15 May 2014

Augustus - Taunton

It seems to me that Augustus is a very strange Restaurant, I found it by going to my room logging on to the Wifi and immediately conducting an internet search for my usual 'key words' which I'm sure you are relieved to hear are for 'best restaurant in <insert current town I'm stuck in this week>'. Augustus was not at the top of this list and nor was it included in my follow-up search 'recommendations for places to eat in <nearby town of vague interest>'. However when I followed a link through to Trip Adviser and started to scan the list offered to me, my eye passed cruelly over many a posh pub, cafe cum bistro and standard Indian/Chinese/Pizza takeaway only to stop on a terrible picture of an empty table.




I think I was intrigued by the fact that it refused to be characterised as conforming to any specific cuisine and that, I consider to be the fabulous crescendo of British food. Met at the door and told that there was no table available due to a over stuffed booking schedule, I was about to leave empty tummied when I was asked how fast I could eat. How fast can you cook? I countered, and with a grin was shown to a table at the back. It seems that the kitchen was on point because as soon as I made my choices, bread and some lovely nibbley seeds were presented forthwith.

I thought Celeriac Soup with Hazelnut oil would be a decent test of a chef's touch and while I remain unconvinced about it as a regular addition to my favourites list, I do know that this soup was light, creamy and packed with flavour. It coated the spoon with unctuous ease and was served as hot as lava - beautiful.




The pork that followed couldn't quite live up to this promise of the soup, but was only a little less delicious. The tenderised pork was wrapped in pancetta and laid over a lovely bit of veg, sauce and what I think was celeriac mash. Clearly the kitchen had got a great deal from their veg supplier that week. From the high of the soup, it was the mash that let this dish down, the texture was grainy and the flavour a little watery but with plenty of the reduced sauce it still went down a treat.




After two courses and a coffee, I was out and away within the time limit set by my very pleasant waiter, £35 for food and a couple of glasses of a half decent red. Honestly, don't let the terrible picture/website/location or name allow you to miss this gem - Augustus really delivers on the relaxed, satisfying atmosphere you (I?) want from modern British food.

Lovely job.

UPDATE - I'm pleased to say that when searching for 'best restaurant in taunton' Augustus is now prominently displayed! 

www.augustustaunton.co.uk