Great Western - Tiverton

I have occasion to go to Tiverton perhaps once or twice a year. A pleasure that I often look forward to, thinking as I do, that I will take time to do some research and look at different hotels and places to eat. The reality of the situation invariably results in me booking the hotel the morning of the day I am due to arrive, arriving late that evening and deciding that dinner at the hotel followed by a couple of pints in the bar is by far the easiest, quickest and least tiring option available to me.

The Great Western is the default hotel of choice with good rooms at a decent rate and a bar that at least doesn't pretend the mass produced ale on tap is the real thing. But you are not here to learn about my bad time tabling, you want to know about the food. The menu always looks exciting. It tells you all the right things; local meat, seasonal produce and a paired down menu from which I order with eager anticipation.

The scallop and beetroot starter was great. Personally I prefer scallops with the roe attached but I know that is an acquired taste so I certainly wasn't expecting it! The beetroot was earthy, blended with a bit of cream and nicely salted. The combo worked for me and with the exception of the pretentious micro herbs, for which I'm sure there is a very valid reason but I'm afraid left me cold, was a really nice dish.

For main, I went for the venison steak. I was convinced by the alleged local and seasonal (buzzword bingo!) descriptions but it soon became unpleasantly clear that local and seasonal is no shield against poor butchery or an over enthusiastic chef. While I'm loathe to criticise attempts to bring venison back to the British table, this was just a poor job across the board. The cut was bad, containing gristle and membrane, and was served medium to medium well (I asked for rare), as well as under seasoned. Served with two massive mushrooms whose only moisture came from the garlic butter that had been applied, I did however like the chips; they were big, crispy and light, all the things chips should be.

I ended with the cheese course which, I'm afraid to say, was quite unremarkable. Mild cheddar, horrid goats cheese (I loathe goats cheese at the best of times), and a merely adequate Stilton finished me off. I retired to my room £30 the lighter. I'm sure I will return as I will, without doubt, forget to book anywhere else in advance. I am also as sure, that I will berate myself for not doing so.