We stayed using Airbnb for the first time and were really impressed. It is a great way to explore new places through the eyes of the residents. During our few days in Verona we stayed in an apartment on Via della Valverde which was perfectly situated away from the touristy centre filled with school trips and Americans all looking to get as much Shakespeare in their life as possible. However, quite apart from the commercial generated sales of 'Romeo and Juliet cake' and the general 20% mark-up on anything within a 1 mile radius of the central Arena (which is indescribably awesome by the way), we managed to hit up a couple of really amazing plates.
Firstly, sourced through a tip from the lovely lady who hosted us in the apartment, Bella Napoli was excellent in almost every respect. An immense slab of pizza cooked to crispy based perfection with suitably simple topping options: red, white or fish. When you order this big fella (1 metre in length) you get one third red (tomato and basil), one third white (mozzarella with a touch of bacon) and one third fish (tomato sauce with anchovy).
This along with a starter of sliced salami and caprese (tomato and mozzella with oil and seedy sprinkles) was loads for two adults and two kids. The mixed salami was salty, meaty and rich with a deep smoky taste of Italy, the tomato was fresh and zingy then muted by the milky cream of the cheese. This meal stood out with it's simplicity and was a perfect start to our time in Verona.
The next eatable of note was the Gelato shop on the corner. Mrs P and I had been using 'Gelato' as a code for treats for The Child but it wasn't more than 24 hours into our trip when the penny dropped and we had to take cover from a bombardment that NATO would be proud of. We decided to start as we meant to go on and cracked early - the place was a mecca for gelato aficionados, such as The Child. Not only did they have a wall of flavour choices all in Italian (so she had to literally try every. Single. One.), but also a tap that dispensed chocolate sauce. Chocolate sauce, out of a tap. They also do crepes and other deserts which is entirely pointless, because we only ever saw people ordering gelato, and they did this a lot - an ice cream shop open until 1am every Saturday night? Now you understand the popularity of this place. Or perhaps further proof, if it was required, was the enormous and permanent queue out of the door!
Favourite flavours as tested by the family P included (but were not limited to): cookie, white mint (as opposed to the luminous snot green version we get over here), salted caramel, milk chocolate, biscotti, lemon sorbet and 1947 cream. The 1947 flavour was particularly interesting as it tasted almost lemony with a creamy and sweet condensed milk base. Oh, and they also make ice-cream cakes, and I know what you're thinking, but this isn't some soggy boxed, Mums gone to Iceland, 3 for a fiver, money saving special offer. Oh no, this is the real deal.
There was also a little shop opposite the apartment, it sold a little bit of cheese, a little bit of salami and a whole lot of wine. And while this was technically sold by the bottle, I was not quite expecting the lady to whip out an empty 1 litre sparkling water bottle and fill it up from the massive vats on one side of the wall.
However, the truth be told, at 1.80 euros it tasted good... after I had drunk half of it.
Finally, while wandering through the city centre, I spotted a restaurant plying it's patter with the passing trade and once I finished sniggering to myself, I couldn't help feeling that the joke was somewhat lost on the locals.
And also I couldn't resist these:
Cheesy nik-naks with a hint of Happy Days? Eeeeehhhy.
www.airbnb.com
www.bellanapoliverona.it
www.gelateriaromana.com
@GelateriaRomana
I did not (unfortunately) receive any payment or freebies from any companies mentioned above.
* A tour in as much as we went to three different places, but 'tour' sounds much more impressive when you describe it to other people.
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