Thursday 27 September 2012

The Fat Duck - Bray

Well, well. After 18 months of trying (off and on) to get a table at Hestons 'piece de la resistance', Mrs P. and I finally managed to shoehorn ourselves into a two seater at the back. It was a meal that we've been looking forward to for ages and we were seriously wondering if the hype would be matched with a skill that has catapulted the Blumenthal brand to the forefront of British culinary expertise.

So, what was it like? Before we even got there, we were treated to a sensory experience that we learnt is the hallmark of Hestons cooking. I won't spoil it but I have to say that we were sceptical at first but by the end, I was converted. So, with the anticipation at a significant high, we stepped through the doors of a rather unassuming house on the high street in Bray.

I'm afraid there are few photos because we were told that no phones were permitted and we thought that to start snapping with our digital camera might come across just a little chavvy. However, part way through, we noticed other diners didn't seem to have our same reservations and were busy taking as many pictures as was humanly possible! 

First of all, the service was a thing of beauty. Slick as you would expect and more staff per diner than a catering college. I opted for the wine tasting menu as well so I could really give it a go, but I could only go with the cheapest of the three choices in that menu at £125. Even for what we had justified to ourselves as birthday and christmas presents all rolled into one, I still couldn't justify the £995 per person the high rollers were asked for.

The courses were interesting, challenging and delicious, just not all at the same time! As there were 12 courses, and in the interest of time (not to mention the fact that I didn't take many pictures), I'll describe my high and low lights.


Snail Porridge
Mmm, yes. Yes please. It was delicious, totally in balance and a true wonder to behold. The porridge was smooth, creamy, salty and delicious. The snail was a true pleasure to eat, the Mrs even seemed to enjoy it!


Mad Hatters Tea Party
Mrs P. loved this, a stock gel shaped into a pocket watch, dissolved into a teapot and pored into the cup with various some lovely micro herbs and other stuff.


The Sound of the Sea
Didn't work for me, this one. I love seafood but I clearly like it less Hestonified. Catch it, steam or grill it and serve = no more talk required. Tapioca sand, some dodgy foam and a few pieces of, admittedly expertly prepared, fish does not, for me, make three Michelin stars.

Duck
Pleasant if a little cold. In fact, everything was a little cold. Not something I was expecting. The duck was really nice, I liked the black pudding and the pickled onion was a great surprise. But the blood sauce? I still shudder at the memory of the texture.

Black Forrest Gateaux
Oh mama. I don't really appreciate puddings (give me a decent cheeseboard any day), but this? This was a chocolate hit of pure, unadulterated smiles. the ice-cream, the cherry, the cake, the ganache, the sauce and the chocolate crumb. I've just come over all unnecessary again.


Iced and hot tea
Hot and cold tea at the same time. A gimmick? Sure. A clever gimmick? Absolutely. Loved it.

Whiskey gums
These were great. Each one flavoured with a very distinctive whiskey. Not much more to say really!

So a the end of the day, was it worth it? Well, that's not really a question I can answer. To drop the best part of 600 quid on lunch requires a specific mindset anyway. It was an experience like no other and for that, you have to pay. Theatrics were certainly the theme of the day and I have to say that, for me, less faff and more honesty wouldn't have gone amiss.

I suspect that most people wouldn't like the food, you have to engage with the meal in a way that day-to-day eating, or even a good dinner out, does not require. But open your mind, open your senses and you will be rewarded!

My biggest problem with it was the fact that I just felt that the food was so prepared, so prepped that it lost some heart. The cooking and eating are both linked and while undeniably clever, The Fat Duck represents the over emphasis of the process rather than the outcome. I'll not be going back, unless that is, someone else is paying!

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